A strange situation has arisen here in deepest darkest Devonshire. Before mid September eggs were in abundance, popping out of the chickens at a rate of knots. Half a dozen eggs could be purchased for a pittance at any number of houses in the vicinity. Now there are none. Not one. Not a sausage! So, unless I fancy the 2 hour trek to the nearest supermarket (which I don’t, by the way, just in case you were wondering) then I am going to have to survive without them, until the next rare bus into town.
Coincidentally, a few days ago a friend contacted me with a challenge to make some tasty bakes, without using eggs, as he is allergic. Always up for a challenge, I scurried into my kitchen to start experimenting.
My first port of call was Eating For Victory, a book published a few years ago made up of facsimiles of all the leaflets issued by the Ministry of Food during WWII. I have always been fascinated with WWII ration cookery, discovering ways in which housewives coped, indeed flourished, with the limited resources available to them. Thanks to the combined efforts of the Ministry of Food, established at the outbreak of the war, the Women’s Land Army, slaving away to produce enough food to replace the imports that had been cut off, and the inventive and persevering housewives that fed the nation, Britain managed to not only stay well fed, but became fitter than ever during the war. From 1940 the Ministry of Food issued jolly pamphlets suggesting interesting ways to cook with what was available, or instructing on how to use new products, such as tinned meat, powdered (or household) milk, introduced in 1941 and dried eggs, in 1942. One such pamphlet, entitled Cakes, Biscuits and Scones Without Eggs, deals with the chronic egg shortage, and was exactly what I was looking for. Although this pamphlet deals specifically with cooking without eggs, I found that most of the recipes in the book are egg free, which is not surprising, since even though egg rationing didn’t come into place until July 1941 eggs were incredibly difficult to come by from the beginning of the war, and most cooks learned to manage without.
From a whole host of recipes for cakes, biscuits, puddings and other sweet treats, here are a couple tried and tested by me.
~Chocolate Cake~
From leaflet No. 30 – Baking without eggs
3oz. margarine or fat
7oz. plain flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¹/₂ teaspoon salt
1 ¹/₂ oz. cocoa
3 oz. sugar
¹/₄ pint warm milk & water
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 tablespoon vinegar
¹/₂ teaspoon vanilla essence
~Rub the margarine or fat into the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the cocoa and sugar and mix with the milk and water. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar and add to the cake mixture with the essence. Mix, turn into a greased 6” tin and bake in a moderate oven for 1 ¹/₂ hours.
The recipe is written simply and eloquently, and after searching high and low for my measuring jug (it was behind the armchair, of course?!?!), I got started, finding all in all, a very easy to make cake, with the bicarbonate of soda/vinegar mix adding a bit of pazzazz and brightening up what would have otherwise been a rather dull Wednesday afternoon. Aside from exciting me, the bicarbonate of soda/vinegar supposedly makes the cake lovely and bouncy. Instead it gave the cake mix a very odd rubbery texture when uncooked and once it had cooked, lets just say it was far from bouncy.

A rather unattractive war time chocolate cake
It tasted just as bad :(
But, I was determined to try again, sure that with a little tweaking it would work. So, using almost the same ingredients, here is my version of a ration regulation chocolate cake. The biggest problem I found with the above cake was the crumbly, dry texture and floury taste. It was also more salty than sweet, which in a cake, I find rather weird. So I lowered the flour content and upped the sugar content to 4oz, which at half of the weekly sugar ration, leaves enough sugar for another cake during the week! I also upped the fat content from 3oz o 4oz, which, by the end of the war, was the entire weekly fat ration…so thats the end of making 2 cakes :(
~Chocolate Cake: Take 2~
4oz. sugar
4oz. marge (or butter-if you can get it!)
1 tbsp oil
¹/₄ pint warm milk & water
6oz. plain flour
3tsp baking powder
1 ¹/₂oz. cocoa
~Cream together the sugar and fat. Add the oil and whisk (this sort of takes the place of the egg…except oil isn’t binding. Oh well). Stir in the warm milk and water.
~In a separate bowl stir together the flour, baking powder and cocoa. Beat this into the wet mixture until smooth.
~Pour the mixture into a greased tin and bake at 180°C for about 40 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted.
I finished the cake off with this suggestion from the above leaflet (I managed to ‘find’ a sneaky ¹/₂ oz of butter…).
~Chocolate Filling~
¹/₂ oz. margarine or butter
2 oz. cocoa
2 oz. sugar (I used icing, is that allowed?)
2 tbsp. strong black coffee
or
2 tbsp. water & 1 tsp vanilla essence
(I opted for the coffee variation)
~Melt the margarine. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa and sugar. Beat in the coffee or water and essence, until the mixture becomes a good spreading consistency.
Surprisingly, this made a really tasty and good looking topping for the cake. I’ll definitely be using this recipe again.

An altogether more attractive chocolate cake
The second recipe from Eating For Victory was a steamed jam pudding. Although it was a lot less sweet that jam pudding we are used to nowadays, it was very good indeed, and would make a delicious treat for a cold day, served with lashings of custard. I have edited the quantities ever so slightly…just to bring out the sweetness.
~Steamed Jam Pudding~

Steamed to perfection
6oz. plain flour and 3 level teaspoons baking powder
or 6oz. self raising flour.
A pinch of salt
2oz. fat (grated suet is best)
2oz. sugar (maybe add a little more, for modern sweet-tooths)
Just over ¹/₄ pint of milk, or milk and water
2 tablespoons of Jam…3 if you can spare it!
~Mix together the flour, baking powder if used, and salt. Rub in the fat and add the sugar. Mix to a dropping consistency with the milk and water. Put the jam at the bottom of a greased tin and add the pudding mixture. Cover with lid and steam for 1 ¹/₂ – 2 hours.
For the steaming I used a ceramic pudding bowl, covered with a piece of cloth and tied up with string. i put this into a large pot with anout 2” water in the bottom, covered with a litd and let it steam away. Make sure you check the water levels in the pot.

Happily steaming away
The next recipe, also from WW2 is taken from Marguerite Pattens book We’ll Eat Again.
Super simple, and very tasty.
~Golden Syrup Loaf~
4oz. self raising flour or plain flour with 2tsp baking powder
¹/₂ tsp bicarbonate of soda
Pinch of salt
2oz. brown sugar (this is just my addition. Omit it if you want to be totally authentic)
3 tbsp warmed golden syrup
¹/₄ pint warm milk
~Sift the flour (or flour and baking powder), bicarbonate of soda, salt and sugar. Heat the syrup and milk and stir together, then pour over the flour mixture. Beat well, until all the lumps have disappeared.
~Pour into a greased loaf tin and cook in a moderately hot (220°C) oven for 30 minutes.
While this isn’t as spongy as your average cake, it is still very good. In my opinion, the more golden syrup, the better. This could just be because I LOVE golden syrup. Once baked pierce the cake all over with a skewer and pour another tablespoon of warmed Golden Syrup over the top, for extra syrupy goodness.

Nom nom, cake!
So what have I learned from this brief foray into war time cookery? For one, I know that baking during the war must have been no mean feat! Without eggs, and with only limited supplies of fat and sugar the cakes tend to be dryer, denser and less sweet than you’d like, but with a little bit of improvisational ingenuity, then cakes can be baked!
Experimenting is certainly fun, but perhaps i’ll stick to non-ration cakes in future. I will, however, in the very near future be trying out some more WW2 recipes… savoury things and such like…I may even take the experiment a little further by only eating rations for a week or two. That would be fun…
To finish off, I leave you with one more egg free recipe. This isn’t from a ration cookbook, but it is one of my favourite biscuit recipes ever, and although I have been making these my whole life, I have only just realised that they are egg free. I made these the other day as a present for our neighbours, completely unrelated to my egg free experimentations. They really are delicious!
~Cornish Fairings~
Makes about 18

10 cornish fairings, sitting on the shelf...
8oz (225g) plain flour, sifted
3 tsp baking powder
¹/₂ tsp ground mixed spice
¹/₂ tsp ground ginger
3 ¹/₂ oz (90g) margarine
2 ¹/₂ oz (65g) demerara sugar
4 fl oz (100ml) golden syrup, warmed by standing the tin/bottle in hot water.
~Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) and grease 2 baking trays.
~Mix together the flour, baking powder, spice, and ginger. Rub in the margarine until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Mix in the sugar followed by the syrup, which should be mixed with a fork to form a soft paste.
~With floured hands roll chunks of the dough to form a ping-pong sized ball. Place the ping-pongs of dough onto the prepared baking tray and flatten with your finger tips until each bit of dough is about 1cm /¹/₂ in thick. Ensure they are well spaced as they will expand considerably.
~Bake for about 15-20 mins until risen and golden brown. They will be quite squishy to the touch but will solidify as they cool down.
~Allow to cool on a wire rack and enjoy

Ping-pong sized ball of dough, see

Before baking
Well, enough of this waffle! If you’ve made it to the end of this extremely long post, well done… treat yourself to a tasty little egg. In other news, since I started writing this post a few days ago, we have returned to London, where there are plenty of eggs, so if any of you lovely people were just about to rush out to your nearest post office to send us a food parcel of eggs, then sit back down, and put your feet up.
If anyone has any great WW2 recipes out there, do let me know. I always love getting new recipes to try! Do try these out, and let me know how it goes too.
So long for now,
Ella x